Tomatillos in the Kitchen

When used fresh in most recipes, tomatillos should be husked and simmered for about five minutes, then chopped in a blender, food processor or mashed with a mortar and pestle. You can also lightly roast them on a small griddle. Here are some of David Lyon's favorite ways to enjoy their unique flavor.

MOLE AMARILLO DE OAXACA (Yellow Mole of Oaxaca)

Traditionally served over chicken pieces, enchiladas or as a dipping sauce for small tamales.

8 fresh chiles, roasted, peeled, deveined and chopped
1 raw onion, chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
2 lb. tomatillos, husked, simmered and drained
1 medium onion, roasted
1 head garlic, roasted
1 cinnamon stick, toasted
1 t dried oregano or 2 t fresh
6 whole cloves, toasted
2 medium tomatoes, roasted and peeled
1/2 c. cooking oil
2 T sesame oil
1 slice raw onion
generous pinch of saffron
1/2 c. tortilla dough
4 c. strong chicken broth

Saute chiles, raw onion and garlic until soft. Puree and set aside.

Puree tomatillos, roasted onion, garlic, cinnamon, oregano, cloves and tomatoes.

Heat oils in heavy skillet. Add onion slice and brown. Stir in tomatillo mixture and cook about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally until the fat separates and rises to the top. Stir in chile mixture and simmer about 1 hour or until mixture thickens. Fat on top may be skimmed off.

Crumble and dissolve saffron in warm chicken broth.

Dissolve tortilla dough in the broth. Add to the mole and simmer about 20 minutes until texture of custard, stirring often.

RAW GREEN SALSA

1/2 lb tomatillos, husks removed
1 clove garlic, chopped
4 Serrano chiles, chopped
1/2 t instant chicken bouillon
2 T finely chopped onion
2 T coarsely chopped cilantro

Chop tomatillos, garlic, chiles and bouillon in a blender. Do not puree. Stir in onion and cilantro. Serve at room temperature.

Asada (roasted) variation: This condiment for meat and fish calls for doubling the ingredients. Heat tomatillos and chiles on very hot griddle. Remove chiles when slightly browned (5 minutes)and cook tomatillos until browned and mushy (about 10 minutes). Grind together with other ingredients.

COOKED GREEN SAUCE

1 lb tomatillos, husked and rinsed
4 large green chiles, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 slice white onion
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 t instant chicken bouillon
2 T cooking oil

Place tomatillos and chiles in saucepan. Simmer over medium heat for 5 minutes.

Puree in blender with a little cooking water. Blend in onion, garlic and bouillon until smooth.

Heat oil in heavy frying pan, add sauce and cook over medium heat until slightly reduced (5 to 7 minutes).

Suiza (Swiss-style!) variation: Make a double batch. Combine 2 t. cornstarch, 1/2 t. white vinegar, and 3/4 cup milk or light cream. Stir into the tomatillo sauce and heat to thicken. Typically served over chicken enchiladas topped with melted cheese.

If you have lots more than you can enjoy fresh, tomatillos are easy to can. Fill sterile jars with whole simmered fruit, topping it with tomatillo puree. Process at 10 pounds for 15 minutes.
Tomatillos also freeze well.

Tomatillo enthusiast Judy Barrett has been growing green and purple varieties in Georgetown, Texas for six years. "I started because they're so easy, but then I was inundated with fruits and there was a real lack of information on how to use them" she says. "And other people who were trying them would call me up and say, 'Eek! What do I do with all these?'" So Barrett compiled a book of growing tips and recipes she created, Tomatillos: A Gardener's Dream, A Cook's Delight. The 32 recipes include appetizers, main dishes and even desserts, and there's also a section on preserving and jam making. To order, send $10 to AMS Publications, P.O. Box 913, Georgetown, TX 78627.